제목 [Expert KC] 1_About hair cuticle damage
작성자 kctec
작성일자 2023-07-14

The longest hair on your body, hair!

There's nothing you can do to prevent your hair from getting damaged,

whether it's from styling, coloring, perming, UV rays, fine dust, or anything else.

Hair damage always starts at the end of the hair, which is the "cuticle" as we know it.




You've probably heard that open cuticles cause a lot of hair damage.



Damaged hair starts with a damaged cuticle.



Why is damaged hair dull and rough? Because the cuticle is lifting, and the light is reflected off, making it hard to see the shine. And the cuticles are tangled together, making the hair feel rough. Also, CMC, the glue of the cuticle, is lost for various reasons, resulting in a lack of shine, softness, and moisture.


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What is the cuticle, the first place you can see how damaged your hair is?



What is the cuticle?

The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair shaft.

"a lamellar structure that covers the cell surface of the outermost layer of an organism.


Hair is made up of more than 95% protein, and it has the same structure as a Gimbap.

The cuticle (hair epidermis) is the equivalent of the seaweed in Gimbap, the cortex (hair cortex) is the equivalent of rice, and the medulla (hair medulla) is the equivalent of ham.

More than 75% of the total area of the hair is made up of cortex cells, 15% is made up of the epidermis, 3.5% is made up of the CMC, and about 3% is made up of the medulla.

The outermost part of the hair is the cuticle, and the more layers of cuticle tissue you have, the stronger, shinier, and healthier your hair will be. The cuticle has a respiratory function, and if it is missing from the hair, it cannot fulfill its physiological function.



* What is CMC?

- CMC stands for Cell Membrane Complex.

- The membrane that connects cuticle to cuticle,



* Role of the CMC

 - The glue that holds cuticle to cuticle.

 - The glue that holds the cells in the keratin together

 - Keeps moisture and protein in the hair protected from external stimuli

 - Penetration channel for nutrients



* CMC Composition

 - Lipids

 - Proteins



There are three main types of cuticles, based on where they are located and the cuticle is made up of a complex of cell membranes.



* Epicuticle

- The outermost part of the hair epidermis.

- It receives primary stimulation from chemical treatments and external aggression, and is weak against physical stimuli but very resistant to chemical attack.

* Exocuticle

 - A very unstable layer that lies inside the epicuticle and is intermediate to alkaline chemicals.

 - Easily attacked by chemicals such as perms and hair dyes.

* Endocuticle

 - Innermost layer of the hair cuticle, bordering the cortex.

 - It is hydrophilic and weakly resistant to alkaline products, and the presence of cell membrane complexes (CMCs) serves to adhere to the adjacent epidermis.






Healthy hair







Damaged Hair




The outermost layer, the epicuticle, has about 12% cystine, the exocuticle has about 50%, and the endocuticle has about 3%. The more cystine, the more hydrophobic (water-averse) and rigid the structure.

When hair is immersed in water, the endocuticle, the innermost part of the cuticle, swells by its own volume, causing the entire cuticle to open.

Because the cuticle is layered with CMC and is microscopic, large molecules cannot penetrate it, but if it is swollen and softened by an acid or alkali to create a gap, larger molecules can enter.

The cuticle also breathes to different degrees depending on humidity. Since the superficial CMC runs through the entire hair, water is absorbed into it and the endocuticle swells, opening up the entire cuticle.






<These are clinical photos taken with a specialized electron microscope>






*Reference:

- Optical microscope: A device that utilizes the refraction of light to magnify and observe tissue or conditions, such as our product.


- Electron microscope: A device that uses an electric or magnetic field to focus an electromagnetic current onto an electronic lens, magnifying the image of a sample placed in its path. It has much greater resolving power than an optical microscope.




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How can we prevent this cuticle damage?






Many people know that it gets damaged, but they don't know why it gets damaged.

Did you know that the cuticle is not on the end of the hair?





The cuticle is nowhere to be found towards the bottom, as the hair loses its ability to retain moisture inside, which causes it to dry out, and the friction of combing and other forms of breakage further damages the hair.


That's why it's so important to take care of the hair shaft, the part of the hair we know as the dead protein.





The lower part of a healthy hair




Bottom of damaged hair



Nowadays, everyone wants to have healthy hair.


However, hair that has been damaged even once due to frequent dyeing or perming, fine dust, UV rays, etc. cannot be repaired naturally.


Therefore, it takes effort and time to repair your hair.






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So, what are some at-home hair care tips you can do?




- 'Brushing' with a comb before washing your hair

- Rinse with plenty of water after shampooing

- Apply treatments to hair and leave for a few minutes to absorb

- Apply essence or pack care products after drying your hair

- Blow-drying your hair with cool air rather than hot air


These tips will help you do less damage to your hair.

Keep your scalp and hair healthy with accurate scalp and hair diagnosis and care :)


* Sources: Scalp and Hair Care Utilizing NCS (Gunja Publishing), Scalp and Hair Care (Bukk Publishing), Scalp and Hair Care (Guminsa), Scalp and Hair Care (Chunggu Culture),Scalp and Hair Care (Medisian Publishing)

* Image source: Canva



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